====== Belaying ====== ===== Language ===== |on belay?| | Belay on!|| |Climbing!| | Climb on!|| |Tension! | |Tension on!|| |Up rope!| | OK|| |ready to lower! | |Lowering!|| |Off belay | |OK....|| |...| | belay off!|| ===== Multi Pitch Top Belaying ===== * I think there is no reason not to use a reverso-style belay device for top belaying in multi-pitch climbs * Remember: it WILL NOT AUTOBLOCK with climbers in different directions * keep hand on break strand if rope is not in line with device ==== Efficent climbing rythm ==== * climb up (tail a rope for 2 partners) * build anchor * clove in * “off belay”... * set up belay device * pull rope stack (or stack in rope) * .. “thats me” * set up belay * “belay on”, “climb on” === Belay of Anchor === the standard, works most of the time === Redirect Belay === Rope goes from buddy through Anchor to Belay device on harness... kinda sucks === Belay from harness === Connected to Anchor with end of rope, belaying buddy of harness.. kinda sucks === Trick 17 === {{:mountaineeringwiki:belay_trick17.jpg?800|}}\\ Nifty if there is a ledge or something a few meters away from the anchor\\ ===== Simul climbing ===== basically skips the belaying, the general idea: * weak climber in front * climbers connected * leader leads until he runs out of gear * follower follows an cleans