[[mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki|mountaineeringwiki:mountaineeringwiki]] ====== Anchors ====== **ERNST**\\ **E** qualized\\ **R** edundant\\ **N** o extension (that could shock load)\\ **S** olid\\ **T** imely\\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_magic_x.jpg|}}\\ “Magic X” equalized, multi directional but not redundant\\ \\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_3piece.jpg|}}\\ “Standard Anchor” with a figure 8: \\ \\ {{:mountaineeringwiki:anchor_multidir.jpg|}}\\ Multi directional Anchor: Knots on every strand. Redundant but uses a lot of sling\\ \\ * Remember: if you clip to an anchor with a sling it will not take dynamic forces === Protection === == Bolt == 10mm * 5 – 10 cm ist I.O.\\ If you can see the thread.. its bad == Hanger == rusty sucks...\\ welded edges suck \\ if it moves it may still be ok\\ == Pitons == if you have a hammer you can sound test it.. \\ otherwise it's difficult to know wether its good or not\\ == Cams and nuts == 3 good pieces are a good anchor.. otherwise use 4 === Angle between pieces: === * less than 90: essential * less than 60: ~ * less than 45: good ==== Wrap 7 pull 3 anchor ==== * wrap unconnected cordelette around tree 7 times * knot ends together (EDK) * pull 3 strands * tie 8 * voila