Table of Contents
Belaying
Language
| on belay? | Belay on! | ||
| Climbing! | Climb on! | ||
| Tension! | Tension on! | ||
| Up rope! | OK | ||
| ready to lower! | Lowering! | ||
| Off belay | OK…. | ||
| … | belay off! | ||
Multi Pitch Top Belaying
- I think there is no reason not to use a reverso-style belay device for top belaying in multi-pitch climbs
- Remember: it WILL NOT AUTOBLOCK with climbers in different directions
- keep hand on break strand if rope is not in line with device
Efficent climbing rythm
- climb up (tail a rope for 2 partners)
- build anchor
- clove in
- “off belay”…
- set up belay device
- pull rope stack (or stack in rope)
- .. “thats me”
- set up belay
- “belay on”, “climb on”
Belay of Anchor
the standard, works most of the time
Redirect Belay
Rope goes from buddy through Anchor to Belay device on harness… kinda sucks
Belay from harness
Connected to Anchor with end of rope, belaying buddy of harness.. kinda sucks
Trick 17
Nifty if there is a ledge or something a few meters away from the anchor
Simul climbing
basically skips the belaying, the general idea:
- weak climber in front
- climbers connected
- leader leads until he runs out of gear
- follower follows an cleans